|
|
FOAK paging Pip, WUN et. al = corroded fastener disassembly cognescenti
|
Might have guessed. Left doing the awkward exhaust valve clearance on
the Nordwest until last. Always do the known swear box jobs first. To
get even reasonable access you have to remove the HT coil (easy) and the
right hand radiator cooling fan. This is normally a doddle, but it is
some time since it was done. Should have plus-gassed it first. The
mounting set screw has a (not very on this occasion) captive nut. The
nut sits in a slot in the plastic fan shroud. The nut is corroded to the
set screw and turns in the slot. So far I have tried a small screwdriver
inserted in an attempt to wedge it and a tint g-clamp tightened up
across the plastic with the hex nicely lined up.
|
Spray a load of solvent type cleaner all over the area where the
captive nut isn't very captive then liberally coat the nut and
surrounding plastic with Loctite high strength retainer.
When you're certain that the Loctite has gone rock hard use a cordless
drill to drill through the centre of the screw. If you're lucky then
you'll find that once you've drilled the head off the rest of the
screw will start spinning and go straight out through the nut. If
you're not so lucky then the nut may have to be re-tapped for a new
screw.
|
Apart from my time is a great healer suggestion on Pip's brake disc
screws thread recently I am wondering what to do.
|
Sorted.
Time is indeed a great sorter-outer ;-)
|
Angle grinder or dremel not really one in this scenario. V. difficult to
get to the screw head (can just about get a spanner on it as frame in
the way). I could easily hack through the plastic shroud, but nordie
cooling fans, whilst not exactly like rocking horse manure, are not that
easily come by. Uncle Bob may have a good used one but I am in nil
illigitumus carborudum mode and not ready to give up yet. My gumption is
beginning to fade somewhat though.
|
|