|
|
Valve adjustments
|
My F4i is due for it's first valve adjustment (16k miles). So I take out
the Honda service manual and quickly learn this not an easy job. It
involves removing fuel tank, draining radiator, removing throttle body, most
body work, airbox and even removing the cam. A special tool is also
required.
|
Yeah, same with my airhead boxer bmws.
It's called a "wrench."
What *are* those guys smoking?? Next you'll have to take off
all the wheels and remove the engine from the frame to
change the headlight bulb.
|
Shhh! Don't give them ideas.
|
|
There are 65 shims available in .25mm increments.
I have 2 thoughts: first this can wait until riding season is over, then
I'll take it to the dealer. Or second, screw it and just keep riding until
something bad happens.
So exactly how critical is this little adjustment? The maintenance schedule
says only to inspect at 16k miles (which requires all the above
disassembly). After the initial inspection it is never mentioned again.
|
Definitely wait until the riding season is over. If there
is too much clearance, you'll hear ticking long before any
damage is done. If they're too tight, you'll notice a slight
loss of power, since the valves won't be fully seating. The
danger there is that "blow by" can damage the valve seat or
the seating surface of the valve. But I expect you'd notice
a loss of performance before any damage occurred from a lack
of clearance.
|
|
Actually, the manual says to inspect every 16K.
You don't have to, though. Didn't "Wheelieking" get somewhere
around 90,000 miles out of his R1 before it went boom? I seem
to remember that he said he never bothered with the valves.
The question you need to ask yourself is: do you feel lucky?
Well, do ya?
|
|
It's important to check, but most of the valves will be within specs,
|
Good, it can wait.
|
Second opinion...
At least check 'em. You won't need to pull the cam for that. The only
tool you'll need is a set feeler guages.
Perhaps on your second round (32,000 miles) you can put it off when you
get a better feel for how they wear. The first time is pretty
important. Some will tighten, some will loosten up. If they're a bit
loose you're okay. It's just noise. If they run tight your valves can
burn-up because they can't cool. (The valves dump all their combustion
heat into the head via the valve seat). If they don't seat right, they
overheat...
|
|
and those that aren't will still be safe, which is why they pick the
mileage that they do for the first inspection.
|
Maybe I'll buy a Ducati.
|
Just ride it. It's a Honda. ;-)
|
|
The Hypermoto is going to be released in a year or so; that'd
be my choice.
|
|
Bwahahaha.
|
But they are Italian. They won the World Cup!
|
Just do the check, worst case less than half the valves will need
re-shimming. I would remove all the shims and measure them for
future reference, usually you don't have to buy as many shims as
valves that need adjusting 'cos you can move around the ones you've
got. Ask your friendly dealership if you can show up with a
calipers and swap shims with them for free or a nominal fee. Avoid
paying full price for new shims if you can since used shims are
just as good as new ones.
|
How pricey are shims? I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for the tip.
|
Dunno, but you know what happens when you take your bike in for
service and it needs shims? Your used shim goes in their box
of shims, you get a replacement out of that same box, and the
best part is, they charge you for a brand new shim!
|
If that happened to me I would definitely demand the old shims. Why
let them have free shims for their shim box?
|
|
So, If I understand correctly, you are saying "Don't sweat it, it can wait,
but just do it. Second, buy used shims, they'll work fine (measure with
caliper). And you CAN do it yourself."
Cool, a major service over the off season it is. While I have things apart
I may as well do all recommended maintenance, plus some.
|
You do what you want- but I recommend you actually check the clearances
now rather than wait. You don't have to take the cams out to check
them, just if a shim needs to be replaced, which as I said, isn't likely.
One benefit to checking now is that you will have some idea which ones
are close to needing replacement and which ones aren't. Then the next
time you check you'll also have an idea of how they've changed *after*
the initial wear-in period has gone by.
In the interest of full disclosure:
My SV is at 38k miles and I've only done the first check at 15k. I am
way overdue for the 2nd check because I suspect I will need to pull
out at least one of the _four_ cams.
|
Bryan
|
Just let it go to 32K Bryan. It's a Honda. Hell, if I can skip a check
on a Triumph you should be able to do so on your F4i.
Bob Nixon, Chandler AZ
01 Sprint ST "RED" 52K miles
http://bigrex.net/pictures
|
|
Shim-under-bucket valves typically don't change clearance much at all
once the initial wearing-in period is over, which is nice, considering
how much of a pain it is to check them. Once you get a baseline for
|
Painful to adjust, of course, but painful to check?
|
Painful to check when you have to flush the coolant and remove the
carb assembly.
|
|
how much they typically change between checks, you may feel
comfortable extending the interval.
|
|
Are you shure you got your increments right?? That is coarse to say the
least...
|
|
|