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best clutch cables
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Hi Folks:
It's 8,000 miles and two clutch cables snapped on my 2000 KTM 640
LC/4. The latest cable didn't go 2000 miles. It doesn't pull hard...
It's smooth. The last replacement looked like a wimpy cable when I
put it on. Was cheap too. I'm looking for something that's gonna
last. Any pointers?
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*Where* did the cable snap? Was it close to the lever, probably close to
the nipple? Then you might want to examine the lever for any burrs or sharp
edges that constantly rub against the bowden wire. I trimmed this area with
a dremel to an angle of about 45° to have it guide the wire more smoothly.
Additionally, you could buffer the link of the lever with one or two thin
nylon washers (or replace the wavy black one that might be present there
OEM) to reduce the wiggle which will reduce clatch cable lifetime, too.
I don't know if Magura has improved their "Hymec" system in the past - but
at the time when I tested it with my 1998 KTM 620 SC, it always tended to
fail after a short time due to leakage at the actuator piston in the most
inopportune moment. No matter how I routed the hydraulic cable, no matter
what I did to the "spoke -like" actuator pin or the bracket that connects
to the axle which goes into the engine. I had this three times in a single
year, Magura always replaced the failed part by a new and improved one but
to no avail.
So, from my point of view, I can't recommend the Magura system. The OEM
versions that come with recent models have an internal piston (probably a
"push" and no "pull" design) and hold up much longer.
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Hi Volker! Thanks for the reply.
I got a look at the cable and see that the cable pulled out of the
plastic 'barrel' on the lever end. The cable itseld still looks good.
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Ooops! Plastic? That would be unbelievable. If I got you right, then this
should be metal (probably a zinc/tin/lead alloy) and the cable itself
either crimed or soldered into a (conic) hole drilled into the cylindric
barrel.
If the plastic is not just "anti-seize"-protection for easy clutch
operation, I would ditch it instead of trying to repair with screw-on
nipples.
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I wonder if there's a way to cad-weld a slug on the end. My boat has
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Weld-on (more accurate: soldering) nipples are available in a wide variety.
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a thing on the shifter. It's like one of these 'barrels' with a screw
in it, for torqueing down the cable. Something like this would work
if it were small enough. This one might have been a cheap aftermarket
cable.
Harry
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Thanks Folks!
HarryHydro
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**************************************
How about a hydraulic clutch?
Hebo or Magura both make retrofit kits.
Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF
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Motion Pro T2 cables. They're wound "long ways" and resist
stretching. They will fray internally towards the end of their
useful life though and get progressively less smooth. The
"action" seems to be a little stiffer than OEM.
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