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Clutch not disengaging?
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Hi all, i have posted on some forums but to no avail. Whilst out
riding recently something happened to my clutch, i thought it was
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It's not one of those cheapo Chinese copies, is it?
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the cable at first but soon found it didnt cut out and i managed to
get it home. Have since been trying to solve the problem but am
really stuck.
It's a 125 with a short pushrod and clutch operating arm and cable
on the right side of the bike. The cable is fine. The clutch just
doesn't seem to disengage. If i start the bike up i can change up
and down through the gears without using the clutch. When in gear
the rear wheel will spin. Using the clutch lever does nothing at
all!! The wheel will continue to spin, the engine will not
disengage, and with the clutch fully out and no throttle the engine
does not cut out like it usually would. Any idea's?
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"Cut out" is a term that refers to an electrical problem where the
engine stops firing intermittently.
Maybe you have seen old movies where witnesses were standing around
watching an airplane crash, and the airplane's engine went "buzz-
silence-buzz-buzz-silence-silence-buzz-silence" and then the airplane
crashed just out of sight and there was a big fire ball and smoke
rising into the air.
Instead of "cut out", you should use "stall" to describe what happens
when the motorcycle is in gear and the rear wheel is in contact with
the ground and the engine stops.
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As i said the cable is fine, i have tried it without the cable
connected and just manually operating the clutch arm, with the same
results. I thought the pushrod might have slipped out, and also i
tried reading on the net to learn how the clutch works to try and
fix it, but i'm stuck.
I drained the oil, took off the crankcase, loosened the thrust plate
and seperated the clutch plates, covering each one in fresh oil,
then reassembled and checked the pushrod was seated properly but the
results are the same.
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Did you mic the steel plates and check them for warping? I'm no expert
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expert (and it's hard to know which 125cc bike we're supposed to be
familiar with...), but it seems that warped plates might prevent the
clutch from disengaging when the lever is pulled.
I couldn't see any warping but thats only by eye so not very good.
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(and it's hard to know which 125cc bike we're supposed to be familiar
with...), but it seems that warped plates might prevent the clutch from
disengaging when the lever is pulled.
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I found that if i start up and put in first (rear wheel turning)
then put the rear brake on and pull the clutch in, as i let it out
it operates normally!!! I can feel the bite point again and if i let
it out too far it cuts out! As it should! But ONLY with the rear
brake in! Without it the engine just keeps going and the wheel keeps
spinning and the clutch does nothing at all!!!
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When you do this, does the clutch seem to disengage fully, or only
partially?
Oh yeah, tell us what bike you've got; it'll help us to help you.
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When using the rear brake it doesn't really seem to disengage fully
but is just being helped by the rear brake.
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I just been out and tested it, with the bike in 1st and pulling the
clutch in i can move it, but with a little bit of initial
resistance.
Yes the bike is a cheap chinese copy :( A Sukida SK125, with a honda
cg125 engine and a suzuki gn125 body. It's only for learning and is
all i could afford at the mo :(
So is it normal that with the bike on the centrestand and in gear it
won't cut out? And that the wheel is spinning easily, and i can
change up and down through the gears easily and the rear wheel speed
will change with it? Should it not disengage still at least a lttle
if the clutch is pulled in?? Does it only cut out if there is
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will spin with the biemi neutral. It's caused by oil drag.
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resistance? i.e. the rear brake or the wheel on the ground??
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Rear wheels will spin with the biemi neutral. It's caused by oil drag.
I'm not sure if this is what you mean. But you should be able to stop
the wheel with your hand.
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How about with his foot, preferrably shod with leather? If he goes
grabbing a spinning rear tyre, he might get hurt...
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Well, I was thinking that with oil drag, there's never a problem, but if
it genuinely is stuck in gear, yes, you're quite right.
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I think after taking it apart and freeing the plates a little, and
dowsing them in new oil, new oil in the engine overnight etc, that
maybe the plates are moving a little more freely, and it's working,
but i still feel it is not disengaging as much as it could? Does
that sound right?
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Sadly, I think you might have bought a defective bike. Hence my original
question.
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Many thanks everyone!
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So...any clutch experts out there??? Any help at all would be
greatly appreciated! Many thanks.
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