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1981 Kawasaki KE100 after being stored for 2 years turns off when putting it into gear
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I have a 1981 Kawasaki KE100 that has not been turned on in about 2
years. It was not stored properly so getting it to turn over was the
first problem but after using some starter fluid a few times I have
been able to get it to start up and idle on its own. However, now when
I try to put it in first and ride it cuts off as I release the clutch.
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Work the sidestand safety interlock switch several times to see if the
problem disappears.
Disconnect the switch and insert a jumper between the pins on the
motororcycle wire harness.
If that solves the problem, try to figure out how to clean the contacts
in the switch and reconnect it.
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It sounds almost as if I'm not giving it enough gas. Does anyone know
what the problem might be? I'm, not sure if it's a compression,
electrical, or clutch problem. Thanks
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If it cuts immediately, check your side-stand switch and clutch
interlock. You probably should pull all your switches and connectors
apart, clean them, and re-assemble anyway, just to be safe.
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I would vote for a glob of gunk in the high speed jet. Could be water,
could be rust, could be tar/resin. I believe the high speed jets are
lower then the idle jets on that bike so that would explain why it
starts and idles but does not take throttle.
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I can actually give it full throttle while in neutral or while holding
the clutch in first. Would that still be consistant with the jets? If
it is the voltage regulator or the other box should i just try to
replace them or is there a way to clean them?
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It's not these. Leave them alone.
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thanks for all the ideas and help
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I have no idea what the specifics are to your bike, but general theory
says....
If you can hold full throttle in nuetral with no stuttering or
hesitation, your fuel delivery is fine. Don't mess with it.
If the bike starts on it's own power (without jumping or an external
charger), your bike's alternator, regulator, rectifier, etc... is good.
Don't mess with it.
It sounds like your bike runs perfectly until you try to place it into
gear, correct? Your problem is in either the sidestand or clutch
safety switches- you have at least one of these, maybe both. Look for
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No, he doesn't, *because that model of bike doesn't have them fitted*,
as has been pointed out elsewhere in this thread.
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a simple 2 wire switch on (or very near to) your clutch handle or your
sidestand. When you find it, remove the connector & place an INSULATED
jumper wire between the 2 contacts that lead back into the bike. This
will tell you which switch is bad, and it will be a simple &
inexpensive repair.
Some people disable these switches by cutting the wires, and connecting
them together. I cannot recommend that you do this- these are safety
switches that prevent you from starting the bike while in gear, without
the clutch pulled in. **IF** you decide to disable these switches,
you're on your own when your bike takes off unexpectedly. **IF** you
decide to do this, don't rely on the "twist & tape" method of joining
the wires, it's not a bood practice. Either crimp or solder the wires
together. Again, I don't recommend that you disable the switch, you
should repair/replace the one that is bad.
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It isn't a sure thing, just the way to bet/first guess.
Sometimes the gas tank vent gets clogged and won't feed gas to the
carburetor fast enough.
Sometimes the filters in the tank and in the petcock get clogged with
corrosion and won't feed gas properly.
For those problems you can just disconnect the fuel line from the bottom
of the petcock and see how fast the gas comes out. Really just needs a
small trickle. If this was your problem, you would be able to leave the
gas on with the engine off for say 20 minutes and the bike would run
normally for maybe a minute before the gas in the carb ran low.
Sometimes the floats and needle valve get hung up. Usualy it goes the
other way, too much gas/flooding rather then not enough.
The no HP at throttle typically points to the high speed jet. I've also
had high speed needles come loose or otherwise loose their retaining
clip, allowing them to *not* move in sync with the throttle. Kind of
rare and only happened when I screwed up assembling the carb or got a
carb that wasn't put together right.
I don't think it is an electrical problem.
Believe it or not I have 3 Kawasaki 100cc bikes, all G5s from the 70s.
One came to me in a 2 for 1 price with a KS125 for ~$74 together for my my S.O.>, another was a $10 roller that I stuck a DT100
engine in, and the last addition was a $41 piece of mobile art I
couldn't resist buying but haven't got running yet.
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