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Well, the clutch is back in, but ...
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... still no joy on the snapped bolt. It's got a hole in it, and
temporarily, the end of a drill bit.[2]
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Now replaced with the end of a screwdriver. Arse.
It will come out. I shall not be beaten.
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You're telling us what, exactly, here?
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Progress this weekend was hampered by the start of the Six Nations
rugby, but, having assembled the clutch, and refitted the spring, it
wouldn't go in.
Now, you can't assemble a GL1500 clutch like a normal one - you have
to mount all 19 (nineteen!?) plates between the clutch centre, and
pressure plate, then fit the diaphragm spring, and circlip, then try
to thread the clutch unit onto the splined shaft. Of course, there's
no way of establishing the relationship of the splined shaft, to the
cutouts on the clutch basket. This results in much swearing.
Eventually, I assembled it on the shaft, tightened the lifter plate on
loosely, then *carefully* removed it from the shaft, and fitted the
spring. It then refitted with only minimal swearing.
Washer on, threadlock on the centre shaft, and a restaked nut later,
and all's hunky dory. The lifter plated seated nicely, and torqued
down correctly onto the intact threads of the new pressure plate.
A nice clean surface of the cover had a smidgen of blue hylomar
applied, and then the fun of doing up the fourteen bolts that hold it
in place could begin. There are 9 short bolts, five longer ones, and
you can't see 8 of the holes they have to go into. Additionally, four
of them have to hold hose clips. I used all three (1/2",3/8" and 1/4")
drive sizes to do up the bolts, as clearance and reach were different
on each on. Oh, and I used a ratchet spanner with a 3/8" drive
attachment too. Great fun.
So, that's done - even the slave cylinder is back on. Woohoo.
More fun looms with the snapped alternator mounting bolt tomorrow
evening, then I can check the cambelt for alignment once more[1], fill
it with oil, and reassemble the twelvety-seven bits of bodywork that
had to be removed.
With luck it could be rolling before the weekend.
[1] Question: how *exactly* do the "up" marks have to match? When the
lhs one is bang on the money, together with the centre one, the rhs
one is out by maybe 1/3 of a tooth's width. It's definitely not a
whole tooth out, cos I've moved the belt on the pulley to check. Seems
that the only method of adjusting is through tensioner tension,
iyswim.
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I know nothing of multi-cylindered plumber's nightmares in this respect,
but on a trusty single lunger like a Nordwest you can't be absolutely
sure you are bang on the money until the belt tensioner is back in
business. If all appears well, then it is still worth turning the motor
over a few times and rechecking before lighting the blue touch paper.
'entre-de-mers' so typos may be numerous and significant>
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[2] I presume going up in bit sizes will eventually work, yes? That
cheap Ryobi cordless drill/driver is proving useful, after all.
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