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The mystery sickens!!
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So I stop in the raceshop to retrieve my leftover parts and such, and I
mention the 3000-4100rpm stumble. The guy who did the work and the guy who
runs the shop listened to my quickie description, and the guy who cleaned
and installed the carb kit said "I really didn't test ride it enough to see
that" and the owner said "its too rich, I know what we have to do to fix
it".
To be honest, the guy who didn't get to test ride it was completely right,
he didn't get enough running time to find the thing I found. And this isn't
the first time I've had carbs out, and worked over, and reinstalled, and to
be honest I was quite happy the problems with the carburetion are as limited
as they are right outta the install.
The old FZR400 would just go ape right around 3500, below that it was okay,
above 4000 rpms it sounded like a full bore racing machine and revved like
it. Turns out, I never let it fall below 4000 except on startup, so it
wasn't a problem.
This hesitancy sits right in the 35-50mph range in top gear though, so its
worth fixing. Anyway, I rooted out the dynojet instruction booklet, and they
appear to back up what the shop owner said with nothing more than my
description. The exact description in the booklet is that the needle needs
lowered, and for a more severe stumble right in the midrange, possibly a
leaner main jet.
Hows that fit in with your specific type of knowledge Krusty? And the other
question is, how far can you play this game before I run it at sea level and
it holes a piston? See, they are playing a delicate game here and they know
it. The bike has to run up here around 6000', but it also has to run well at
sea level. The recommended dynojet mains for a full Stage 3 kit were 114's?
The regular jets are listed as 110's? But they specify its for an OEM
filter, and I've got a K&N. The needle has room to drop probably 3 levels.
So where would you start, considering these guys are just going to do little
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While I agree with the general suggestion, and have complied with it in the
past, I've had good luck with carbureted bikes over the years, so I don't
think I have to ONLY acquire FI ones.
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things to start with. Do you go down 1 on the needle only? Do you go down 1
on the needle and drop down another main jet size? And do your answers to
these questions change if you have to make sure it stays just rich enough to
still work a-okay at sea level?
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