wrenching on the urinal

Have a drink on me while I finish off this bowl of chilli.

I had a lunch meeting yesterday and on the way back to work I noticed that
Earl wasn't running quite right. He was threatening to stall when I was at
idle and felt like it was only running on one cylinder when I was at low
revs. My first thought was that the idle jet was clogged, then when I got
to work and parked I left it running to take a look around and I noticed gas
coming out of the overflow on one of the carbs. I shut Earl down and the
gas stopped (no more gas coming through the petcock). It looked like I was
going to have to open up the carb and take a look, but not until I got home.

I headed home after work, and since most of it is on the highway at
relatively high rpms, the bike ran fairly well. When I got home I could
barely struggle up the driveway and when I stopped I had the gas coming out
of the overflow again. That's odd, the bike didn't fix itself.

I posted the symptoms on the russianiron.com site and it was suggested that
I should also be looking at the float, it's possible that some crud was
keeping the float needle from cutting off the gas flow. So, I pulled the

...

bowl off, and the first thing I noticed was the little screw on the bottom
that would have allowed me to drain the gas first, which could have saved me
the good dosing of gas I got on my hands. Anyway, there didn't seem to be
any blockage at the float needle and I pulled the idle and main jets and
took a look and they looked clear. I cleaned out the bowl and put
everything back together. I started up the bike and everything seemed ok,
could be that whatever was blocking whichever passage was cleared by my
poking around.

I got new gas lines from the dealer when I got the bike with the
instructions to replace the stock Russian ones at some point, so I ordered
up a new air filter and 2 new gas line filters and figured I'd do the work
this weekend. Unfortunately Earl had other ideas. By the time I got the
work this morning the same symptoms were back.

Tonight I decided to replace the lines and clean out the existing gas

You've probably already considered the possiblity that these
crud-in-the-carb related symptoms extend all the way up to the fuel
tank. Maybe you just got a tank of dirty fuel, or maybe the inside of
your tank is combining with oxygen to form a compound commonly known
as rust. I'd drain the tank into a gas can and use it in the mower,
and have a good look around in the tank if you can. I'd maybe strain
the gas through a shop towel and see what is in it. If you find crud,
is it magnetic crud?

conehead ah00010

filters, I also gave a little shot of air through the passageways of the
carb just in case something was still stuck. This time I was wise enough to
drain the carb before starting, although I didn't open the bowl this time.
The gas line change didn't take too long and soon enough I had it all back
together. I turned the primer on the petcock on (which dumps gas into the
carbs without the need of the vacuum thingy to open the valve) and then I
promptly turned it off so I could screw the drain screw back in, cleaned up
and turned it back on. No leaks, yet. I fired up the bike and it idled
great. I let it run for a bit, rolled down the driveway and drove back up
and so far all is well.

The real test will be tomorrow when I actually ride it, but for now I think

And I keep trying to convince myself I need a newer bike.
Wonder why I don't...

Not sure. Not once do I recall having to leave it in the garage because I
couldn't ride it.

DOH!

Tom - AH#103 BS#80 FHBE#8 FLF SENS
58 FLH - 02 K1200LT - 07 GS-A
MC insurance info at www.bikershut.net

I'll put my feet up and have a beer, feel free to help yourselves to
another.

Not trying to be a wise-ass, but just how many hours of maintenance
required for 1 hour or ride time?

I really want to know as I am still toying with the idea of buying a
Ural.

If you're worried about maintenance then get a Japanese bike.

But seriously, you really want to know?? OK, but I'm getting a drink and
putting it on your tab.

When was the last time someone in here posted about changing the air filter
on their bike, or the oil filter, or a simple oil change, or swapping out a
new tire? These are all items people are doing on a regular basis (or
having their dealer do), they just don't happen to bring it up. I've been
posting everytime I do anything basic just because a few people said they'd
like to hear about it, don't misinterpret that as the bike being unreliable,
it has yet to leave me stranded. It does require more basic maintenance
than, say, a Harley. For example the service intervals are every 2500KM,
that's about 1560 miles, I suspect not too many people in here are changing
their oil and going over their bike every 1560 miles. On the other side,
how many Harley or metric dealers give out two CDs that show video clips of
what needs to be done for each of the service intervals, and how many owners
manuals and parts lists are on company websites:

I got the bike having been told the 500km service interval was done.

As per service intervals, so far (at 5800km) I've done:

3 engine oil changes. (1700km, 2700km and 5200km. The 1700km wasn't
required)
Performed 2 transmission oil changes (same oil in both engine on
transmission). Neither change was required, only the level needed to be
checked.
Changed final drive gear oil once.
Adjusted neck bearing (this was a bit of a pain)
Checked wheel bearings for proper adjustment
Checked all fasteners (I typically do this when cleaning the bike)
Changed the rear drive wheel (due to low tread depth, ok, the thread was
showing in one spot)
Checked front brake pads and fluid reservoir
Adjusted rear brakes
Checked air filter, will be replacing shortly
Checked spokes (done every so often regardless of service interval)
Lubricated various linkages
Synchronized carbs (requested on first interval, I've done it a couple times
just for fun)

The service intervals are listed at the end of the owners manual, available
at the link above.

Aside from that

I've adjusted the tappet clearence, more out of my own curiousity and
learning than a need to.
I've had the clutch pivot pin come out, but not fall out. Pushing it back
in and putting a new cotter pin in when I got home, problem solved.
Clutch was grabbing at idle while in gear. Adjusted the clutch cable,
problem solved.
Smashed side light lens from a rock. Ordered and replaced the lens, problem
solved.
The oil pump stopper at the top of the engine backed out, that was solved by
tightening it back down and now I check it from time to time.
After the bike sat in heavy rain a couple times it bogged down shortly after
starting. I'm told this is due to water being sucked in past the air
filter. After getting the lap blanket and covering the seat (and
subsequently the intake box) this hasn't been a problem, although I hear
others complaining about the same thing.
Crud in the fuel lines caused the float needle not to seat, resulting in
issues at idle and leaking gas. I replaced the fuel lines last night (the
2007 models come with better lines from what I hear) and cleaned the gas
filters. I've also been told that the tool kit comes with an attachment for
the tire pump, which also comes with the bike, for blowing air through the
carbs gas passages to remove any crud that might be in there. I haven't
seen this adapter, but I haven't looked through the tool roll for it.
Rear brake was running really hot, I was told to back it off and that the
housing should only be warm to the touch, not hot. I've backed it off quite
a bit and need to start tightening it up so that it's usable again.

I've added a lap blanket, replaced the stock tonneau cover (which sucked on
the gear up), added a driver side windshield, handle bar muffs, a passenger
windshield (which isn't usually on since I don't usually have someone in the
hack).

The bike has been very easy to work on, although if you're doing anything on
the right side of the engine you have the hack to content with. I've driven
to work everyday except one since I got it back in mid June. My daily
commute is about 10 miles each way, so I'm not exactly racking up the miles.
I've had it to New Hampshire for a wedding and on a couple rides around Nova

^^^^^^

Heh,heh! He said 'around Nova Scotia'...
It *must be* and Island!

Scotia with Grizz, but so far it's still relatively new and with low
mileage. I have no regrets for having bought it and haven't felt like it's
required an extreme amount of maintenance, and it has yet to go back to the
dealer for anything. My dealer is active on a Canadian Ural e-mail list and
is in the business of selling them because he likes them, not to make a
living off them. He makes a living off his machine shop, not the bikes. So
far he's ridden from Nova Scotia to Washington state for the annual Ural
dealers meetings on a Ural sidehack, and last month on their solo "Wolf"
model, which will not be carried next year.

I suggest you read through the manual, check out the what needs to be done
during the service intervals, and realize that you'll go thorugh drive tires
much quicker than the other two. It's still a Russian bike, it's crude in
many ways, but I'm having a blast with it and couldn't be happier. This
winter it will receive much abuse as it drives through the satly slush,
we'll see how it holds up.

Tud, thanks for the straight up info. And sorry about that beverage,
have a couple on me.

I have an 03 Ultra Classic now for regular getting around. The Ural
would be a pure "want it cause it looks neat."

As for wrenching, I won't say I can do everything but I do know which
end of a hammer to hold. Although not currently practicing I hold an
FAA A&P ticket, spent 23 years in the US Navy working on various
aircraft and have maintained my personal vehicles cause I couldn't
afford a shop mechanic. So I know what most tools look like, can
follow directions a little and know when to call in the professionals.

Should be fine with one of these then, they're pretty straight forward.

I'm curious how you find the Ural out on the Freeways? Can it go fast
enough to not be dangerous or do you stay on the less traveled roads
with lower speeds?

I've had it on the highway running at about 65 for close to 3 hours, and
between 65-70 for 20 minutes everyday on the way to and from work. I
wouldn't use it for touring (actually I might, but I'll stick to the smaller
roads), but so far it hasn't been a problem. It'll bog down on hills, and
if your doing 65 and need to get around a semi in a hurry, you can't.

Thanks Tud, I saw both post. Around here some roads are 70-75 mph and
lots of drivers go well above that. Even secondary roads are 60ish
except in or near a town. I don't like the idea of getting ran over
by some rockhauler or guy in a 1 ton pickup so being able to maintain
road speed is important.

Think I'll have to find a dealer and take a look at one of these
rides.

More than likely they'll let you take it for a spin, at least my dealer did.
Actually he asked me if I wanted to take it for a ride. If you can do that
then find yourself a highway and see what it'll do (actually, you may want
to hold off on that until you've gotten used to it, maybe get in the hack
and have him take you out on the highway).

I responded to this yesterday from home, but I don't see the post.
So....you've got plenty of wrenching experience to easily handle one of
these IMO. As for the bike on Freeways, it's OK, not great. I've run at
65-70 for a couple hours straight with no problem (other than running out of
gas). If I hit an incline I may slow down, depending on how much of an
incline, there are lot's around here to contend with. If you're doing 65-70
on the highway and you need to get around a semi in a hurry, forget about,
not much pickup at those speeds. You've got a nice touring bike, so if
you're just looking for something to take out o the backroads and to have
some fun with, this is the bike. I'll use this as my touring bike, but I
don't get a chance to do much touring so it's a bit of a moot point.

Happy motoring!

Good post, seems the Ural is reasonably easy to wrench on.
I've been thinking about getting a Ural and your post gave a

I have a few years of tinkering behind me. Here are a few things I've
seen/learned that I don't see anyone else bringing up:

I've had perfectly good looking needles that just flat wouldn't seal.
Replacing the seat and needle straightened it out, but your machine should
be too new for that.

I've had a float that leaked, got gas in it and then the bowl overflowed.
If your problem gets worse again shake the float near your ear and listen
for sloshing inside.

If it really is just a tad of crud in the needle then whacking the float
bowl is an easy side-of-the-road fix that also fingers the culprit. I use
the back end of my Buck knife. Not like a hammer, I just tap it straight
against it. You'd get the same effect out of a rock tapped against it. I
generally tap at the flange, or some other sturdy looking spot, not right on
the bowl. If whacking the bowl a few times doesn't fix it, it probably
isn't crud in the needle. And nobody whine about dents in the carb.
They're not dents, they're character.

G'luck, thanks for the drink,
Don

good report.

It doesn't like being ridden on an Island?

there went my glass of Ice cold water!

Tom - AH#103 BS#80 FHBE#8 FLF SENS
58 FLH - 02 K1200LT - 07 GS-A
MC insurance info at www.bikershut.net

Not sure, I haven't had it to one yet.

Prolly a bit of something floating around the carb.....
Maybe take it off and spray it out good with carb cleaner???

I swtiched out the lines, cleaned the filters and shot some air through the
gas passages. It ran great on the ride to work today, I'll keep an eye on
it, but I suspect whatever was there has worked it's way through or has been
removed.