Clean carbs on old CBR600

I checked various archives, info was scattered over many messages
relating to many circumstances, etc. I don't think I can use much of
it without making numerous assumptions that I don't want to make
(about the problems/solutions being discussed).

Proposition:
The lo-end of 1 or more carbs is gummed/fouled/.

The brace of 4 CV Keihins is off the bike, floats draining as I fiddle the
keyboard. The bike has only 20k mi. It sat unused for only 1 month, that
owing to the unexpectedly hideous heat wave in the midwest.

I've got basic tools and a can of compressed air. I need something like
a cookbook description of what needs to be done to clean the carbs. It is
doubtful that the gumming/clogging etc is very extensive.

...

2: VALVE SET, FLOAT

3: NEEDLE SET, JET (The emulsion tube can probably be pushed out of the
carburetor body to clean the cross drilled air holes)

6: SCREW SET (Idle mixture screw, turn it all the way clockwise, counting the
number of turns, write down the number of turns, then remove it and segregate
it from the other idle mixture screws so you can put it back in the same
carburetor, screw it all the way down and back it off to the original factory
setting.)

"Pilot screw" per Honda. Not adjustable. Just acrew in all the way.

The carbs were very, -very- clean. But the tiny, tiny pilot screw
passage was clogged (all 4 carbs).

...

24: JET, MAIN (#105)

25: JET, SLOW (#35) (When you remove it, use a slot screwdriver that fits
perfectly so you don't damage it. There are probably cross drilled air
emulsion holes that may be plugged up.)

I've heard that some solvents will destroy the finish on some carbs.
What solvent should I use?

Berryman B12 Chemtool Choke and Carburetor Cleaner will dissolve gum and
varnish quickly and won't hurt the finish on the carbs.

I got some. Worked OK. Is it really any different than Gumout?
I haven't had time to read the labels ...

Once the carbs are apart and you have all the diaphragms and o-rings
off, people use various things to clean the metal. They all work and
they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Some use clean gas,
acetone, seafoam, techron, carb cleaner, brake parts cleaner, and even
dishwasher detergent. One thing that will make life easy is
compressed air to blow out all the little passages that are not easy
to come at and that are not supposed to be cleaned mechanically. Most
recommend avoiding the temptation to poke a wire through the jets, for
example.

Whatever you do use, make sure that the product is either safe for the
rubbery bits or that it never comes in contact with them. If you are
replacing all the gaskets, o-rings, and diaphragms then this won't be
a concern, obviously.

Any/all suggestions/advice would be -very- much appreciated.

The pilot air jet is probably under the big rubber diaphragm that lifts the
slide.

I looked ... did not see ...

When you squirt B12 down that hole, it should squirt freely out of the idle
jet and also the three small idle mixture ports in the carburetor by the
throttle butterfly and the single idle mixture port about 3/4ths of an inch
downstream.

If you don't see B12 squirting out any of those four small holes, cover the
other three holes with your finger and keep squirting B12 until you get a
good flow.

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

I'm not certain you were thinking of the same carbs as I had ...

Anyway, it's running pretty well.

Much Thanks for your help with this!

Cheers,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

TIA,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller