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Old Kawasaki Zed Thou running rich
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Not mine....
but...
Old 1980 Z1000H, so something of a museum piece, stock exhausts (!),
stock air filtration with new filter, appears to be running on the
rich side. Where to start?
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What leads you to believe it is running rich?
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I'd check the fuel level first.
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Meaning the float level in the carb(s), I assume.......also needle valve
associated with each.
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Well, certainly the float level controls the fuel level, assuming the
floats and float needles are working OK. But you check the fuel level
first, not the float level-- that way, if the level is correct, you leave
the floats alone, if it's slightly high, you adjust the floats, and if
it's much too high, you then find and fix the underlying problem.
Of course checking the fuel level is quite quick and easy to do, and does
not require removing or disassembling the carbs.
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Well of course, any fool knows that.
But since I'm not just ANY fool, care to enlighten me (us) ?
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Restricted intake
Restricted exhaust
Choke/enricher not opening fully
I suspect it needs carbs cleaned and/or rebuilt BUT, for a 27 year old bike,
I suggest finding carb rebuild kits or parts BEFORE taking them apart.
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This may not be so easy. Isn't the '80 KZ1000 H1 equipped with one of the
early electronic fuel injection systems? If so, your best bet is to find an
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Yes. I've found a forum for it now.
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old maintenance manual for specific troubleshooting guidelines for the EFI.
These systems are notoriously tough to work on.
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Well, I'll be durned. I didn't know there was a big Kawasaki four with
fuel injection before the GPz1100.
Hopefully my comments about measuring the fuel level on carbed bikes is
useful to someone, I suspect it won't be of much use to TOG in this
instance.
Knowing next to nothing about Kawasaki fuel injection of that era, I'd
start by checking the TPS (throttle position sensor) for monotonic
output when actuated-- a typical failure on car injection systems is
dirty (intermittent output) TPS potentiometers. Whatever other
sensors are present, (coolant temp/intake air temp/manifold pressure
air flow) would be worth checking also. Definitely one would need
the genuine Kawasaki factory service manual, and a DVOM plus an
oscilloscope would be very helpful.
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