K1100LT overhaul

That was instructive. I decided that as the K11 had a slightly patchy
service history - not much in the way of receipts for the last five
years, but stamped up before that - I'd get the independent specialist
recommended by Timo to go through it, but completely, from stem to
stern.

I knew it would cost, but I figured that I'd be starting from a clean
sheet of paper, and could work out a proper maintenance schedule.

So, at 23,000 miles and 13 years, this was what Brian (ex head mechanic
at L&C in Tunbridge Wells) fixed, did or flagged up:

1=2E Complete 24,000 mile or two-year overhaul. Every single fluid,
valves, plugs, filters, Motronic and ABS check.

2=2E Replace floating disc rivets on front discs (some vertical play
evident)

That's care and dedication for you!

3=2E Replace missing exhaust manifold stud (!). A dealer had replaced the
silencer, according to the papers I have, but in so doing... Amazingly,
it wasn't blowing.

4=2E Replace neutral light/gear psition switch. Swinging arm out job, so
good time to check all the drive shaft couplings etc and the swinging
arm bearings. All A-OK.

Excellent design feature!

Yeah but to be fair it can be done with most stuff left in place

... and most other K stuff is very easy access (plugs\injector
balance\filters [1]\shims\rear wheel)

[1] although the air filter can be a bit fiddly but no major hassle

Shims are a cams-out job on the K11.

I know but my point is the cams are easily accessible compared to an average
Jap multi.

Oh, right.

It's a doddle to do. Just have a small torque wrench to hand for the
re-installation, or a helicoil kit.

5=2E Replace rear disc pads.

6=2E Sort out dodgy seat catch.

7=2E Replace bulb in fuel gauge

8=2E Replace missing bolt in electric windscreen hinge (I'd noticed some
unusual play).

9=2E Re-mount fairing. At some stage it had been off because the bike had
taken a slight knock. On the inside of the panels, you could see where
a repair had been made and then the fairing and tank had been
resprayed. This was given a thumbs-up, as apparently it was only a
small bump and a very good quality repair job, but whoever had replaced
the fairing had got fasteners muddled and hadn't put it on exactly
straight. I hadn't noticed. It now has proper BMW fasteners in all the
right places.

I hadn't detected any play in the head races, but was shown that with
just your fingertips on the bar end, and your other fingertips on the
frnt tyre, you could *just* feel an incipient notch in the centre. "But
OK for another year at least."

Put a K75S Fluid Block damper in the head when you change the bearings.
It doesn't cost much and makes them feel that little bit nicer, unless
you can go all the way with a full hydraulic damper.

The fuel filter was the original. Never been changed from new. That
makes one wonder, considering the service book was properly stamped and
receipted for the first six or seven years.

I'm not sure how you would know if I'm honest

Items missing: the pad at the back of the tank that prevents the seat
rubbing the paint, and the 'LT' badge from the front of the fairing.

This man is incredible. He must have 'BMW' running through him like
letters in a stick of rock. He observed that the front pads weren't
genuine BMW ones, and said they could wear the discs, which being ABS
discs, cost =A3Eeek! each. I pointed out you could get pattern ones from
MotorWorks and he frowned as if I'd said something dirty.

"I only ever use genuine BMW parts. I don't have any pattern parts here
at all," he said, severely.

Lost me here! BMW pads are not the best although on the 4 piston mods
not too bad. Disk wear Vs performance, I know which way I go. The
biggest difference in HH or CL is the initial bite with little lever
pressure, I like to feel a good solid bite using one finger pressure.

On most other things I would say yes, service kits etc., go for BMW
quality. Head bearings? I go to a good factor and get what they say is
best.

As for oil, BMW make a rather expensive synthetic. It does get excellent
performance review. Over the life of the bike will you notice the
difference with Mobil-1, I doubt it. These days I'd just use a Halfords
synthetic unless I'm importing M1 or getting it wholesale. M1 retail in
the UK is theft. 5L in the USA compares to 1L here.

This extended to the spark plugs. They were NGKs, and although NGK
recommend a fitment for the K, BMW don't (apparently) recommend NGK
plugs, so it's got Bosch ones in it now.

Agreed, I think K's and arguably boxers should always get OEM Bosch
plugs, just work better and more reliably.

IMHO, this is *exactly* the sort of geezer you need.

Nice. Luckily I've found one of those for the Ducatis
and you don't mind paying slightly over the odds
to ensure that your machine(s) are well looked
after.

Interesting about the fuel filter. I've done my own
intermediate services and always score any filters
with a scribe to mark the date on them - that way
I know they get changed and know when they
were last changed too.

Actually, given the fact that he had the bike for two whole days and
did a helluva lot of work on it, I think this was way cheaper than a
genuine BMW garage would have charged.

BMW put the date on their fuel filters at the factory when they fit
them new - this one was dated 1992! He marked the date of fitment on
the new filter, though.

Exciting life he leads though!

So, when all was said and done, he said the bike was now "exactly as it
came from the factory" and reckoned that it was a very, very nice K11LT
indeed. Which is reassuring to know.

Price ? A whisker short of =A3700. Not cheap, definitely not cheap, but
excellent value for money.

So, when are you selling it?

Lot of that is having the back end out. Had you done that job yourself
the rest would look like a very good deal.

Erm, don't understand this. He did everything, so as that bill includes
having the back end apart, it sounds like a very good price to me.

My point was that sw-arm removal and inspection would have accounted for
a goodly slice of the work. Had you done that yourself the bill might
have been 3-400 and so a very fair price all in all.

Ah. Some parts were expensive, though. The rivets for the discs were

Yoikes!
At the mileage I do wonder if that was a bit anal

about =A325 a side.

Cheap compared to =A39 each[1] for the AP Racing ones that were fitted to=
=20
the Gixer. It worked out cheaper to replace the discs with PFM ones than=20
it was to just replace the bobbins only on the AP discs.

[1] 8 per side

Well, quite. There was certainly a tiny amount of vertical play. But
what I wanted was to get the bike absolutely 100% sorted, as good as it
was possible to get it, and so I didn't mind. And Brian is definitely
like that. You can almost imagine him tasting the new engine coolant
before pouring it in, just to check it was the right vintage. When you
want a job done properly, you really need this sort of bloke.